Hair Care Folklore
By Carl Gregory
Everyone has a favorite myth about hair care – and we usually never let the truth get in the way of a good legend!
1. Excessive washing of hair causes hair loss/dryness
FALSE: Frequency of washing doesn't harm hair. Wash it as often as you like, although the recommendation is three times a week. The right shampoo for your hair type and texture will actually add moisture, body and beauty to your hair.
2. More shampoo = Cleaner hair
FALSE: Don't waste your shampoo! A dollop of shampoo, about the size of a quarter is usually enough for long hair. Very long hair may take a little more.
3. Conditioner helps repair split ends
FALSE: No conditioner can "repair" damaged hair. What it can do is smooth down the cuticle and make hair seem in better condition. A good conditioner can also prevent damage from occurring in the first place.
4. Blow-drying produces hair loss
FALSE: Blow-drying can damage, burn or dry hair, which can cause it to fall, but the hair will grow back immediately. This is not permanent hair loss.
5. Sleeping with wet hair causes scalp fungus
FALSE: Scalp or fungal diseases can't be caught from sleeping with wet scalps. Scalp infections require prior involvement with infected sources such as humans, tainted hair care tools or animals. Scalp fungus (tinea capitis) mainly affects children, whose immune systems make them more susceptible to skin infections.
6. To get your hair to grow, brush 100 strokes each day
FALSE: Brushing that much can damage the hair cuticle. NOT recommended! Actually, your hair reacts better to a comb than a brush. Brushing it will only lead to split ends and hair breakage.
7. Sharing combs and brushes can spread scalp diseases
TRUE: Lice and other parasites can be transported from scalp to scalp through the sharing of combs, brushes and other hair care tools.
8. Cutting hair makes it grow faster and/or thicker
FALSE: This common misconception comes from the fact that hair is thicker at the base than it is at the tip, so shorter hair appears thicker at first. Cutting your hair does not affect its normal biologically determined growth rate or overall texture. Thin, limp or fine hair will not ever grow thicker in response to a haircut. Plump up your hair by using volume enhancing hair care products, experimenting with a hair fattening blunt cut or getting a texturizing perm or color treatment.
9. Color treatment causes hair loss
FALSE: Most hair coloring products contain chemicals that can do serious harm to the hair itself if not properly used, but it wont instigate hair loss.
10. Salon products are identical to drugstore products
FALSE: Although there are exceptions, salon products generally contain higher quality, more expensive ingredients that are designed to consistently provide more intensive cleansing, moisturizing and conditioning results. The quality ingredients found in salon products are not usually found in drugstore brands. If in doubt – read the labels.
11. Long sun exposure favors hair loss
FALSE: Your hair acts as a shield against the sun. Hair loss appears at the follicle level and so the sun would have to penetrate at this depth to do any damage.
12. Diet is related to hair loss
TRUE: it's important to eat right in order to be generally healthy. However, no individual food has been proven to be beneficial or detrimental to hair.
13. Stress causes hair loss
TRUE: Severe stress (e.g. surgery or a death in the family), can shut down hair production, causing temporary hairloss (alopecia areata). The scalp usually recuperates, though, and hair grows back
14. Wearing tight braids, ponytails or buns causes baldness
TRUE: Traction alopecia is a very real hair loss condition that is quite common amongst older African American women. It results from wearing tight ponytails, cornrows or buns over an extended period of time. Over time, hair breakage or loss as the result of tight, stressed styles can become permanent. Avoid this potential problem by opting for looser styles that minimize scalp tension.
15. Smoking causes gray hair
TRUE: According to J. G. Mosley of the Leigh Infirmary in Lancashire, England in an article in Science News (January 11, 1997) smokers are four times more likely to have gray hair than non-smokers. Even worse, smoking has been conclusively linked to accelerated hair loss.
SUMMARY
Heard another myth about hair? Do your research – ask an expert! This doesn't include your grandmother, best friend or local barmaid. Instead, talk to an experienced hairdresser. Always get the real facts before you act on any hair myths – you owe it to your hair.
By Carl Gregory
Everyone has a favorite myth about hair care – and we usually never let the truth get in the way of a good legend!
1. Excessive washing of hair causes hair loss/dryness
FALSE: Frequency of washing doesn't harm hair. Wash it as often as you like, although the recommendation is three times a week. The right shampoo for your hair type and texture will actually add moisture, body and beauty to your hair.
2. More shampoo = Cleaner hair
FALSE: Don't waste your shampoo! A dollop of shampoo, about the size of a quarter is usually enough for long hair. Very long hair may take a little more.
3. Conditioner helps repair split ends
FALSE: No conditioner can "repair" damaged hair. What it can do is smooth down the cuticle and make hair seem in better condition. A good conditioner can also prevent damage from occurring in the first place.
4. Blow-drying produces hair loss
FALSE: Blow-drying can damage, burn or dry hair, which can cause it to fall, but the hair will grow back immediately. This is not permanent hair loss.
5. Sleeping with wet hair causes scalp fungus
FALSE: Scalp or fungal diseases can't be caught from sleeping with wet scalps. Scalp infections require prior involvement with infected sources such as humans, tainted hair care tools or animals. Scalp fungus (tinea capitis) mainly affects children, whose immune systems make them more susceptible to skin infections.
6. To get your hair to grow, brush 100 strokes each day
FALSE: Brushing that much can damage the hair cuticle. NOT recommended! Actually, your hair reacts better to a comb than a brush. Brushing it will only lead to split ends and hair breakage.
7. Sharing combs and brushes can spread scalp diseases
TRUE: Lice and other parasites can be transported from scalp to scalp through the sharing of combs, brushes and other hair care tools.
8. Cutting hair makes it grow faster and/or thicker
FALSE: This common misconception comes from the fact that hair is thicker at the base than it is at the tip, so shorter hair appears thicker at first. Cutting your hair does not affect its normal biologically determined growth rate or overall texture. Thin, limp or fine hair will not ever grow thicker in response to a haircut. Plump up your hair by using volume enhancing hair care products, experimenting with a hair fattening blunt cut or getting a texturizing perm or color treatment.
9. Color treatment causes hair loss
FALSE: Most hair coloring products contain chemicals that can do serious harm to the hair itself if not properly used, but it wont instigate hair loss.
10. Salon products are identical to drugstore products
FALSE: Although there are exceptions, salon products generally contain higher quality, more expensive ingredients that are designed to consistently provide more intensive cleansing, moisturizing and conditioning results. The quality ingredients found in salon products are not usually found in drugstore brands. If in doubt – read the labels.
11. Long sun exposure favors hair loss
FALSE: Your hair acts as a shield against the sun. Hair loss appears at the follicle level and so the sun would have to penetrate at this depth to do any damage.
12. Diet is related to hair loss
TRUE: it's important to eat right in order to be generally healthy. However, no individual food has been proven to be beneficial or detrimental to hair.
13. Stress causes hair loss
TRUE: Severe stress (e.g. surgery or a death in the family), can shut down hair production, causing temporary hairloss (alopecia areata). The scalp usually recuperates, though, and hair grows back
14. Wearing tight braids, ponytails or buns causes baldness
TRUE: Traction alopecia is a very real hair loss condition that is quite common amongst older African American women. It results from wearing tight ponytails, cornrows or buns over an extended period of time. Over time, hair breakage or loss as the result of tight, stressed styles can become permanent. Avoid this potential problem by opting for looser styles that minimize scalp tension.
15. Smoking causes gray hair
TRUE: According to J. G. Mosley of the Leigh Infirmary in Lancashire, England in an article in Science News (January 11, 1997) smokers are four times more likely to have gray hair than non-smokers. Even worse, smoking has been conclusively linked to accelerated hair loss.
SUMMARY
Heard another myth about hair? Do your research – ask an expert! This doesn't include your grandmother, best friend or local barmaid. Instead, talk to an experienced hairdresser. Always get the real facts before you act on any hair myths – you owe it to your hair.
Hair Color Disasters: How to Recover
By Carl Gregory
Introduction
Why does hair color hold such fascination? Hair color can be that amazing magic wand that instantly transforms dull mousy locks into glorious golden lights that shimmer and shine. It can also instantly erase years of age by covering gray, adding depth to fading colors and cranking up overall shine.
Time has not lessened the power of hair color. Currently Clairol makes more than 70 different shades of just blonde hued hair colors.
Although hair color has the fabulous power to transform a mousy brunette into a fiery redhead, beautiful blonde or classy raven beauty, with pleasure often follows pain. Permanent hair dyes with a high chemical composition may stress and dry out the best of hair.
Even worse, hair color can sometimes go horribly wrong. Whether applied at home or the highest priced salon in town, hair color can sometimes take a bizarre detour and come out any hue, but the one that we hoped for. While hair color disasters are much more common at the hand of bathroom hair wizards, master colorists can sometimes have a bad color day. Yes, it happens.
Many hair consumers make the mistake of thinking that hair color is infallible and will always come out looking just like the hair color of the beautiful model on the box. There is nothing further from the truth. Another misconception is that anyone who can do hair can do color. Again, not true.
Becoming a master colorist takes years of training especially if you specialize in color correction as I do. A master colorist is two parts chemist and one part artist which is a rare combination of talents in an industry where few practitioners have any formal education other than the "Basic Cosmetology" course they attended to obtain their initial hairstylist license. I really can not stress enough the importance of questioning your potential stylist regarding their credentials and training since completing beauty school before allowing them to color your hair. Additional training is critically important when it comes to color correction.
Possible Problems
If you are experiencing hair color horrors you developed them because of one of two possible paths:
1. You went to a professional stylist or colorist and came out with a color disaster.
2. You were swept away by a hair color advertisement and did the dirty color deed to yourself in the privacy of your home.
It is important to point out that there is a major distinction between home hair coloring and professional hair coloring. Many consumers think that there is very little difference. This is not true. The differences are many and somewhat complex.
Professional Resolution
If you went to a professional colorist or stylist, contact them immediately to report your color problem. Most experts believe you have a 48-72 hour window before the color has a change to lock into the cuticle. Prompt action is critical for safe color correction.
Don't get wrapped up in the blame game. While it's good to evaluate what went wrong so you can avoid it again, forgive yourself and your colorist/stylist and focus on fixing the problem. Avoid outbursts of anger or emotion. Yelling and forgetting to be polite will only make the situation much worse.
Remember, even the best colorists and stylists in the world can encounter problems. Give them the benefit of the doubt and be willing to let them try and fix the color to your satisfaction. Most professionals will try to correct color problems and will do it at no additional cost, unless you caused the problem in some way.
The best colorists do know how to correct their mistakes, so give them a chance to do so. Your color problem just might be a slight tonal difference from your desired shade which can be easily corrected if the correct glaze is applied. Be sure to ask what the color correction cost is before you agree to try it at the hands of your hair professional. This allows you to be clear about your financial responsibility.
Professional Backup
If you went to an unfamiliar colorist or stylist and you are unsure that they can correct the problem, find a color correction specialist that you are sure can undo the color damage. Try not to panic and take your time to find the best solution for you.
If you sincerely believe that the first professional stylist or colorist caused the problem, call and ask them to refund your money for the treatment that caused the problem in the first place.
Once you have suffered through bad color, try not to panic and rush to find a solution that might cause even more harm. Many people try to fix the color problems themselves once they get home. This will often make the problem a lot worse and potentially damage hair beyond easy repair.
Avoid the temptation to add more color or try to remove the color at home with bleach or other harsh chemicals. Once you have a color problem the very best solution is to find a professional color correction specialist and work with them to get you back to your desired color.
Color Correction Might Take Several Visits
Many consumers with color correction issues don't realize that hair color can not often be instantly reversed. It can take up to five visits and several months for some serious color problems to be reversed.
Did I say five visits . . . several months?
Yes indeed. Hair color is not like paint on furniture that can easily be removed with paint remover. Hair color is a lot more like painting a white wall. Sometimes you can't just paint over the color with corrective white paint. Many times you have to remove the botched color in several steps. The same is true with hair color gone wrong. If you go to a color correction specialist and they tell you that it will take several treatment sessions, take the time to talk to them and find out why before you reject the suggestion outright.
Home Hair Color Resolution
It is a well known fact that trying to repair home hair color can be very difficult. Don't panic. There are some options to help with your hair color disaster.
If you can afford to hire a color correction specialist, do so immediately. Home hair color has the same 48-72 hour window.
When finding and/or utilizing a professional color correction expert is not an option, turn to the hair color maker for assistance. Most of the major manufacturers have a toll free consumer help line printed on the box or on the brochure inside.
The consumer help lines are usually only available during daytime business hours. Some of the help line consultants will require the exact hair color formula information. Be sure to have the box available to answer any questions that they may have.
It is important to note that other consumer hair consultants will probably not be able to provide any detailed email or phone assistance since the best source of color correction assistance will come directly from the home hair color manufacturer.
There are some cases where serious mistakes will require you to find a color professional to help correct the problem. Although a bad hair color experience can be heart breaking, there is nothing worse than a color disaster that becomes even worse and causes hair breakage and loss.
Actions to Avoid
Although you may feel that you can do a miracle fix with the color, at home yourself, historical evidence in not in your favor unless you utilized a vegetable, semi or demi-permanent color. If you used a permanent color or a bleach product, it is best to try and get professional help from the manufacturer or an outside color expert.
While there are several color removing products available to professional stylist and color specialists, unless you have a complete knowledge of how to use the formulas, avoid them like the plague. The color removal products often contain strong chemicals or bleach and in the wrong hands they can cause severe hair breakage. Color removal products should never be used on relaxed or permed hair without the advice of a hair color specialist.
Quick Fixes
The only way to remove permanent hair color is with a color removal product. Depending on the color that you selected, you may be able to cover the permanent color with a semi or demi-color. Enlist the advice of the color manufacturer before you start experimenting with different coverage shades or you could wind up with the color of mud.
If your visions of Pamela Lee blonde turned to Carrot Top orange, only a color expert can safely get you back to a safe color zone. The same is true for purple, pink, blue or some green.
Some chlorine enhanced greens can be removed with a special chlorine removal shampoo.
Many people have color disasters with henna. Not only does henna coat the hair, it is highly unpredictable for some users. If a horrid shade of henna is haunting you, reach for good old fashioned mineral oil. Follow these directions to lessen or even remove henna from the hair:
1. Saturate hair strands with a mixture of 70% alcohol applied with sterile cotton balls. Avoid the scalp area.
2. Follow 5-10 minutes later with a coating of mineral oil. Apply the mineral oil on top of the 70% alcohol. Avoid the scalp area.
3. Cover your new oily head with Saran or similar plastic. A plastic shower cap will also work well.
4. Sit under a hood dryer for 30-45 minutes.
If you don't have a hood dryer, direct a heat concentrator towards the hair from your blow dryer.
5. To remove the oil, apply a little shampoo to the palms of your hands and then pat on the oil BEFORE you apply water. After you have applied the shampoo to the oil areas, turn on the shower and lather. Use a good cleansing or clarifying shampoo. You may need to shampoo more than once to remove all the oil and the henna. If necessary, repeat as needed.
6. Once you have removed the henna, be sure to perform deep conditioning treatments to restore moisture to the hair.
When in doubt about henna, don't do it. If henna is allowed to stay on your hair more than 72 hours it cannot be completely removed without cutting your hair. Take your time and do lots of research to be sure you are on the right track to desired color results.
Here are some other ways to recover from the horrors of bad color:
1. Time heals all hair wounds
Although you may hate your new color, if either home or professional correction is an option, consider going shorter with a new style that will allow you to outgrow the color quickly. Ask your stylist to help you select a style that minimizes any new roots or growth. Give yourself some time to let the color fade naturally away.
2. Heat to Fade
Hot water is notorious for fading chemically colored hair. Some volume shampoos and gels like Matrix Amplify and related products may also help fade color faster because it is designed to blow open the hair cuticle which sometimes accelerates hair color loss. Hot extra virgin olive oil and some commercial oil treatments will also help to strip chemically applied color. An old trick of colorists is to shampoo with clarifying shampoo which is known for its color striping talents.
Don't assume that it will remove your unwanted hues. It will help fade your color which may or may not be a good thing. While this may or may not be a good option for quickly moving past unwanted temporary or demi-perm colors, it may actually accentuate a bad shade on permanently applied color.
3. Remain Positive
Yes, I know it sounds sappy, but I really believe that when life gives you lemons, you can have fun making lemonade. Being positive really helps in any bad situation, including sporting a head of pink and purple hues when you wanted cookies and cream. Not only does positive thinking and actions make you feel better, it gives you the opportunity to learn new ways to appreciate your hair.
Set aside some private time, drag out all your hair styling tools and play with some new looks that can help you pass the time while your horrible hue grows out. Styling products like volume enhancing mousse or extra strength gel can work wonders on instantly changing limp locks into luscious fat locks. A good straightening balm can remove the frizzes for a smooth, sleek shiny cap and help you to forget that it just happens to be slightly orange.
Experiment with hot rollers or styling irons to achieve a different texture and movement.
4. Pop a Pill
No, hair vitamins will not instantly help you outgrow a bad dye job. However, it will help maximize your genetic hair growth rate and to help you grow super healthy new strands and leave bad color behind. Consider adding a good essential fatty acid to your daily vitamin count which will help to internally condition new strands.
5. Accessorize
Use hair clips, barrettes, jeweled hairpins and headbands to camouflage uneven color. Grab the latest fashion headgear as a last resort and only if you really must.
6. Get out of the house
Avoid the temptation to let your bad hair color experience prevent you from enjoying your life. Don't pass up a special social event just because your hair looks less than perfect. Spend some time before the event practicing some cool ways to equalize your color challenged hair. Sometimes color shampoos will help soften the blow of bad colors. No, it won't change them, but it might make you feel better. Then go out and enjoy yourself. Be advised that dark color shampoos can easily stain over-porous chemically treated or light blond hair.
7. Once Burned
Surviving one really bad hair color experience should help you avoid them in the future. Always make sure that you have a pre-color consultation with your stylist and that you believe you are both on the same hair page. Take photos of your desired hues since stylists work well with a visual view to guide them. Once the color begins, watch carefully. If you think the color process is going wrong, instantly stop the process. If your head or scalp starts to sting or burn speak up immediately. Remember, it is your hair and you have to live with it. Don't be shy, speak up and leave if you must.
Please be advised that I have just briefly touched on the subject of color correction in this article. Please proceed with caution when attempting any color correction yourself. Ask the advice of your stylist if you are in doubt or give me a call anytime if you have any questions.
Love The Hair You Were Born With! Introduction It’s human nature to want what we don’t have. The results of not getting what we want from our hair may result in a blow to our self esteem. It certainly doesn’t help that most celebrities seem to always look like they’re having a great hair day. Never mind that they probably just spent hours being brushed, combed, sprayed, twisted and fussed over by an army of colorists, stylists and other beauty minions. If you ever wondered how to escape the agonies of bad hair days followed by endless self flogging over unmanageable locks you are in luck. Adopt the following simple strategies and you will find instant relief for your hair woes. Accentuate The Positive Start your new hair love program by first taking a good look at yourself in the mirror. Come on. There are lots of things about your hair that you like. Concentrate on the hair parts that you enjoy: great color that brings out your eyes and skin, fabulous length, bangs that are perfectly layered. Focus on all the great parts of your hair and don’t get caught up in the attributes that you don’t like. Make a list and tape it somewhere close to your daily hair care station. Whenever you get discouraged or start beating up your hair stop and read your list to reinforce your awareness of the great hair parts that you truly possess. Silence Your Critics You and only you are required to wear your hair for your life events. Well meaning spouses, family, friends and acquaintances can and will provide their opinions about your hair. When external critics volunteer their unsolicited opinions keep in mind that they don’t own your hair. You do. Unless someone tells you that your hair is on fire, smile politely at their comments and then ignore them. It is helpful to remember that when you are true to your own likes and needs you are truly expressing who you are to the world. This is true of the way you choose to wear your hair, the shoes you select or the car that you drive. |
SUMMER HAIR CARE TIPS Summer may bring fabulous visions of natural highlights and long windblown hair. The reality is that summer sun and humidity can damage your hair and result in dry, dull, split, brittle or frizzy hair and ends. Naturally curly hair is especially vulnerable to summer frizzies. Follow these simple summer hair care tips, and you won't have to spend the fall and winter trying to repair your hair. Avoid Overexposure Hanging out in the sun without protection for your hair and scalp is the worst thing you can do. The sun's heat can burn, overdry and damage your hair permanently. If you get the frizzies, that's hair damage. Wear a hat or bandana on your head when you're at the beach, in your convertible or out in the hot sun. When you don't want to wear a hair cover-up, you should wear a sunscreen made especially for hair. There are several great products available in drugstores right now. If you unexpectedly find yourself at the beach without a hat or SPF for you hair, use sunscreen made for your skin. When you get home be sure and use a deep-cleansing shampoo (like Neutrogena) to rinse it out. It may not be the best solution in the world, but it could save your hair from irreversible sun damage. Shampoo the Smart Way Summer's heat and sun will already dry out hair. Too much shampoo will make it even dryer. You can wash with shampoo every other day at most, and you must condition every single day. When possible, finish with a cool to cold rinse to seal the hair cuticle and impart natural shine. For summer months consider switching to hair care products that are as all-natural as possible such as Aveda. Condition, Condition, Condition! Make a point during the lazy days of summer to liven up your locks with leave-in conditioner. Apply it liberally while you're at the beach or lying by the pool. Start applying an inch down from your scalp (where you don't need more oil, especially in warm weather). Comb the conditioner through your hair and massage into the ends with fingers. At night, a few times a week, dab a good deep conditioner onto the ends and the frizziest parts of your hair. Pin up your hair or pop on a shower cap (it holds in heat and make the conditioner work even better). Then sleep on it. Using this method will restore moisture to your parched hair, reducing the frizzies. Keep The Impurities Out After swimming in the ocean, lake or pool, rinse your hair immediately with running water to remove chemicals, salts and other impurities that can be disastrous to hair color and condition. Cut Back On Heat Styling If you normally blow dry and use hot curling tools every day, try to give your hair a break during the summer months. Consider letting your hair air-dry. Curly haired girls, let your natural curls free! For girls who usually curl their straight hair, hair braided when wet will air-dry into beautiful waves. If you absolutely, positively can't live without your blow dryer, you must use a heat-activated conditioning product that's designed to protect your hair when blow drying. Get Regular Trims Be religious about getting your hair trimmed every six to eight weeks. Since summer heat can be so pump up the frizzies, you need to have the ends trimmed regularly, especially during the summer months. When your ends are fizzy, its a sure sign that they are either damaged, split or both. |
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